Cool Watch – Pax Journal

URWerk Geneve EMC Time Hunter

On the first look, the URWerk Geneve EMC Time Hunter is a unique piece that stands out because of its robust look and technical innovations. With the new technology that focuses on mixing electrical parts with mechanical ones in order to make the watch more accurate from all points of view, the EMC Time Hunter is truly an innovation in the field of watchmaking. Here are some of its most impressing features:

A hybrid watch

As mentioned above, one of the main advantages of the new EMC Time Hunter is the fact that it is a hybrid watch. Much like a hybrid car, this watch combines mechanical and electrical components in order to improve precision and accuracy in telling the time. The electrical parts help the watch when it comes to accuracy and precision, while the mechanical parts are a true spectacle to watch, as the user can enjoy the typical movement of the mechanical parts present in most watches. This is the perfect mix that brings the best of both worlds together in one piece: the URWerk Geneve EMC Time Hunter.

The extra dial

The EMC Time Hunter comes with multiple dials that show the minutes, seconds and hours. However, in the top left corner, there is another dial where the words ‘amplitude’ and ‘precision’ are written in big white bold letters. The previous models only had the word ‘precision’ written in this dial, but the new model shows that the company now also looks into adding amplitude to their watches. This is an important feature because it shows the dedication the company has put into developing a watch that is both precise and accurate in telling the time, hence the mixed electronic and mechanical parts.

Adjusting the watch

Most watches on the market, especially the Tourbillon ones require the touch of a watch expert to adjust them. Even the most expensive pieces lose a few seconds once in a while, it is impossible so far to develop a watch that never loses time. What EMC Time Hunter does is offer the user the possibility to adjust the watch himself. The extra dial with the words ‘amplitude’ and ‘precision’ shows how many seconds a watch loses in a day and, using a screw placed on the back of the watch, the user can adjust the watch himself.

The EMC Time Hunter is definitely a unique piece. However, the most impressive thing is not the design, but rather the focus on precision and amplitude. URWerk have created not just a watch, but an innovation.

Watch boxes under 100$

So, you decided your timekeeper deserves a special box in order to be protected (mainly against dust deposits, moisture, shakes and falls). And although you are willing to spend a nice amount of money on the watch of your dreams, the box in itself has to be accessible. No need to worry, the market is full of various offers that have a good price/quality ratio so you can choose the right type for your watch and for your needs spending less than 100$. And they do offer all you may need from a watch boxes in terms of material, size, number of grids and security features.

If you just need a simple, single grid box you can choose from Chronos, Seiko or Fossil, made from leather or plastic, with different types of cushions or elastics to hold the watch in place. The variety of colors is endless so you can assort it with the watch. If you like a more unusual type of box, there are some in shapes that are different from the usual rectangular or square ones.

The multiple grids cases also come in a huge variety of shapes, materials or safety features. If you are the proud owner of a nice number of watches, you may choose a box with a glass or plastic display, in order to be able to admire your beauties whenever you may want to. H&S has some nice ones with 12 grids and velvet liner that will certainly fulfill your needs. And Songmics comes with a box that has 10 compartments with pillows that you can remove, a spacious drawer and a lock and key for safety purposes. Need more space? Brands like Feibrand offer an impressive storage for 20 watches , with double layers, in marvelous wooden finish boxes in different colors. Pursuing high levels of security? Then carbon fiber watch boxes or impact cases such those from Invicta – made from waterproof plastic and fitted with a rubber grid handle are what you need. The variety is even more impressive when it comes to this boxes interiors, as you can garage your watch on leather or velvet in every color you may think of.

If you travel a lot, maybe a compact box is not the best choice for you, and if that’s the case, you can opt out for a watch case roll made from plastic or, even better, leather, small and flexible enough to fit your suitcase, but yet able to store even 8 pieces. Those are very practical boxes and you can find pieces like Wolf’s Black Lizard skin leather that look quite exquisite and original.

From locks and keys to zippers, press buttons or straps, the security is assured depending on your needs.

As you can see, there are plenty of models to choose from. Explore all options and pick wisely; in the end, if you ever get tired of your watch box, you can also use it to store other things or as a decoration piece if you own a classic wood box, for example. It plays the double role of protecting and displaying your watches so, even if we are not talking about large amounts, it surely represents a good investment.

Arnold and Son UTTE Skeleton

Each time I think at luxury when it comes to fashion comes in to my mind Madonna’s song “Material girl”, which I think is brilliant. Diamonds are the girl’s best friend, or they were before as they slowly began to be everyone’s best friend. Same thing when it comes to fashion.

Fashion is everywhere, fashion is about clothes, accessories, is about a particular lifestyle, furniture, everything. No matter what where we go we are surrounded by fashion. Fashion magazines, websites and stores provides us with the latest trends. In the past only reach people had access to fashion while the poor ones had to wear dirty clothes and no shoes most of the time. Things had changed since then. All people have access to fashion now and even the big brands are producing articles that match with every budget.

Luxury fashion is something that some of us are just aspiring too. It is designed for those rich people who love great designers. Luxury fashion is about good and expensive materials, great cut done by the real professionals. I think everyone would look amazing wearing those clothes and accessories.

Talking of accessories, my favorite ones are the watches. I know, watches are designed to show us the time, but the statistics tell that one in four people wear a watch with a fashion purpose. Even Forbes magazine had an article about women’s best accessories and guess what? The top place was occupied by watches. The best investment is a luxury watch. Finding good watchmaker brands that will last in time gaining value after time passes. Buying a luxury watch is not only about fashion, if you invest your money properly you can end-up with a good business.

In this article, I will talk about a luxury watch that really deserves its money. UTTE Skeleton is a luxury watch designed by the ones from Arnold&Son. For those who don’t know, John Arnold the founder of this brand gain his clients after presenting the smallest repeating watch ever made to King George III.

Returning to UTTE Skeleton, I must say this is a masterpiece that measures 8.34 mm in thickness and is housed in a gold 5N case. It was created only in 50 examples, this is what makes this watch a very good investment. Its design is also breath-taking because of the three-dimensional design of the mechanical sculpture. Created by the best engineers UTTE Skeleton combines the best watch technology with the best look.

The hour and minute display is made by sapphire and the hour and minutes hands are made from gold. The bridges and the main plate are decorated with Cotes De Geneve and made from nickel silver. As you can see, the designers have used the best quality materials, just to make this watch the best on the luxury market at the moment.This is why I found it to be the best in the market right now and always will be the best for many people around the world.

UTTE Skeleton is the thinnest skeleton tourbillion that can be found on the market. The calibre of the watch is A&S8220 which has a long power reserve. Revealing its entire mechanism is something that Arnold&Son engineers are brilliant at. The wheels are chamfered, the same as the tourbillion cage’s edges. The tour billion cage’s edges are polished by hand. Let’s not forget this watch is waterproof which makes it even more interesting and also the best that you can enjoy if it happens that you have one of your own.

As I said the edition is limited to 50 pieces, so if you think it is worth the investment you should do it as quick as possible. The price of this watch is 76.700 USD. Arnold&Son has accustomed us only with the best quality. Best quality regarding the materials, mechanisms and design. What I like the most about their design is that they transform a mechanism that others hide under a fancy carcase into something absolutely gorgeous and delicate. I have never seen something so delicate and elegant, you just can’t stop watching it. Everything has been designed to the smallest detail so that you cannot find flaws.
I am sure once you had a look at this watch and read its feature you will not stop thinking of it, but this is what Arnold&Son engineers do. I am waiting to see what is their next great creation, but I am sure it is going to be special as usual.

Koi Watch by Kerbedanz

A watch is not only an accessory that you wear to check the time; it is a detail that can make the difference between a fashionable, stylish outfit and a regular one. Apart from this, for someone who knows a thing or two about watches, the one that you wear on your wrist can mean a lot of things: who you are, what kind of personality you have, how much you care about your looks and what you believe in. That is why it is vital to choose a watch that will stand out from the others and that will tell a story- like this Koi watch made by Kerbedanz.

The watch comes in a limited edition and there are only 14 pieces produced; this means that it is close to impossible to meet someone who wears the same watch as you. Made with 168 components, 19 jewels and a 72 hour power reserve, it does not only look good but it is also a piece of art when it comes to its functionality.

With a special design inspired by the Koi carp, this watch is guaranteed to be in the center of the attention. The case is made from 18K white gold, and the bas-relief is imitating the fascinating shape and move of the Koi carp in the water. A symbol of life, strength and courage, this is exactly the feeling that you will get from wearing this piece. You will be thrilled to discover the delicate micro-sculptures that are decorating the watch; they are truly making the piece unique while still keeping the look of the watch professional and classy. The micro-sculptures are resembling the real surface of the Koi carp, that comes in a variety of colors and patterns and lives in the fast rivers of China. You will also discover discreet drawings on the inside of the watch that represent the water; while some see it as calm, others see it as a symbol of power and success.

The strap is no different than the rest of the watch, so naturally it is also made from a special, high-quality material. To emphasize the design of this accessory, the strap is made from Alligator Skin that can only be found in the Mississippi river. The folding clasp is, of course, also made from 18 K white gold and it is decorated with a small, but one of a kind Kerbedanz design.

Because the Koi watch is so versatile, it can be worn both with a classic suit or a casual outfit. Suitable for both the day time and the night time, it will transform any piece of clothing into something worth wearing. Why not get your own unique accessory right now?

Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante

When you are passionate about watches and you spend all your free time gazing at complicated designer timepieces equipped with intricate movements you tend to not get overexcited for every new automatic movement model you see. There are only a few watches out there that are so impressively constructed that actually blow your mind. The Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is one of the few spectacular self-winding automatic movement timepieces that prove that there is more to an automatic timepiece that meets the eye.

The uniqueness of the Angelus U30 Yourbillon Rattrapante consists of its intricate construction. It is an automatic winding tourbillon watch that has a double column wheel flyback split second chronograph, a power reserve indicator and that delightful skeletonization that fascinates us so much. The ultimate innovation of this model is the double column wheel flyback split second chronograph that has been incorporated in its Angelus A-150 manufacture caliber, a mechanism that was created by the brand’s watchmakers in more than five years. The real challenge was to engineer all these complications so that they fit inside the small size movement, an elegant mechanism that measures 37.60-millimeter-wide and 9.35-millimeter-thick, and looks stunning inside the skeletonized dial and caseback.

The dial of the watch impresses right from the first moment due to its over the top design. There are 15 wheels visible on the dial which complements the hour markers and hands beautifully. In the center there are the hour and minute hands, in the right side there is the 30 minutes sub-dial and below it we find the split seconds column wheel also known as the chronograph’s rattrapante function. At 8 o’clock there is a bright red-green power reserve indicator decorated with stunning wheels and pinions. And the final addition is located in the upper left side of the dial- the one-minute tourbillon. This function is visible through the skeletonized dial and works at 4 Hertz.

The really interesting thing about the Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is that it has a unique chronograph complication. The watch offers a rattrapante chronograph with a fly-back function. As mentioned earlier, rattrapante refers to the two central chronograph hands that function at the same time, but when you press the crown button the top one counts the time period while the bottom one stops and marks the split time. Even though there are many mind blowing chronographs with impressive functions out there, this one is by far the most interesting chronograph modification available at the moment.

To this very special function the brand’s engineers have added a stunning vibrating automatic winding mechanism and an intriguing tourbillon. The result is a movement that is both intricate and delicate, one that captivates with its innovation and sophistication. The watch has all the modern features of a 21^st century fashion timepiece. Its winding rotor and movement bridges are manufactured from solid 22 k white gold treated with black ADLC coating whereas the edges of the bridges and plates are polished intensively.

The elegant steel case measures 47 mm wide and 15 mm thickness and comes with untreated grade 5 titanium lugs and bezel which match the dark themed movement and the black stealth alligator leather strap.

The Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is a spectacular timepiece that captures your attention with its rare complexity. Its unique automatic mechanism, magnificent skeletonized dial and case and innovative functions are the things that amaze even the most demanding watch collector.

The Grey Watches Market

The grey watches market is often misunderstood by people. It does not involve fake timepieces, but rather genuine watches that are sold by a non-authorized dealer. These types of products can be second hand watches or timepieces sold by an authorized dealer to an unauthorized one. Simply put, they are not fakes, but authentic watches that may not be brand new, do not have a manufacturer warranty and do not enjoy all the privileges of a genuine watch.

It is called a grey market because it is somehow located at the limit between the black market where the fake timepieces are being sold and the white market where the authorized products are available. The retailers that operate on the grey market have no connection with the production, purchase or selling of counterfeit knockoffs. These are individuals that are looking for opportunities of profiting from the retail of designer timepieces which have considerably lower prices and are more attractive for prospect buyers.

There are many ways of telling if a watch is being sold on the grey market or not. For instance, an authorized dealer will never advertise a designer watch at a major discount. Such promotional discounts damage the image and reputation of the brand. This is why, in almost all cases, if a luxury watch has a price reduction of more than 25%-30% then the website offering it is most likely selling a grey market timepiece. Also, the warranty policy is very important when buying a designer watch so be sure to verify the disclaimer on the authentic brand’s website and confirm that it matches with what it is stated on the dealer’s page.

There are numerous online large retail sites like Amazon, eBay and Overstock where you will find grey watches markets. The retailers that have an account on these websites offer genuine products, identical to the ones you would buy from a jeweler’s store, but at a significantly lower price. Other advantages are the free delivery and the absence of the sales tax. All these aspects make the grey market watches incredibly tempting for fans of luxury timepieces that are looking to make important savings. The downside is that if you buy the watch from an online unauthorized dealer then the product won’t have a manufacturer warranty. Since you did not buy the item from an authorized dealer, no servicing center in the world will accept the watch for repairs and usually local jewelers refuse to work on authentic watches because this process is either too complicated or they don’t have the necessary parts to repair them.

If an unauthorized dealer offers to repair the genuine watch in its own service center then you should really reconsider your purchasing decision. They are most likely to use a mediocre skilled watchmaker that doesn’t have access to authentic parts and the result will be disastrous for your watch. After all, even a grey market watch costs a couple thousand dollars so why would you throw this money out the window when you know that the product won’t come with a factory warranty?

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Australe

The Van Cleef & Arpels Extraordinary Dials collection is a proof of fine watchmaking. Every detail of its intricate design is a true work of art. Every single one of these pieces is the result of the extensive work of a very skilled team of artists- the engraver, the enameler, the lapidary, the stone-setter and the miniature painter are just a few of those who have invested their artistic touch into crafting these exquisite watches.

At the SIHH 2014, the brand unveiled one of the most fascinating designs that evoke the theme of Poetic Astronomy. The Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Australe is a very rare luxury watch that was manufactured in a limited number of 22 pieces. This timepiece has a remarkable dial that was created just like a miniature picture, just that its complexity is astonishing. A wide range of traditional crafts and inspirations were combined to depict the excellence and creativity of the Van Cleef & Arpels house. Every dial illustrates a beautiful astronomic poetry through the use of very complex techniques like engraving on a gold mother of pearl dial, hard stone marquetry, stone-setting, hamplevé, vallonné and grisaille enamel.

The constellations are the inspiration for the Van Cleef & Arpel Midnight Nuit Australe. The midnight sky was the object of fascination and curiosity since ancient times, and its symbolism is still a sensitive theme for the brand’s creativity. By using unique watchmaking skills, Van Cleef & Arpel transcends through the limits of time and space and constructs this timeless design which reflects the evolution of the way mankind has seen and understood the midnight sky.

The Midnight Nuit Australe is the model that is dedicated to the Southern hemisphere and evokes the discoveries of explorers and scientists from the 16^th to the 18^th century. The Argo and the Telescope constellations as well as the Vela and Puppis constellations are reminiscent to the work of French astronomer Nicolas Louis de Lacaille whereas the Toucan and Swordfish constellations are the result of the observations of the Amsterdam cartographer and astronomer Petrus Placius.

This Extraordinary Dial watch is decorated with the masterful use of a very rare process that is usually applied for depicting constellations and maps of the sky. This unique technique is called grisaille enameling. The result is a subtle gradation that imitates beautifully the mysterious nocturnal glow. The astronomic theme is continued beyond the dial. On the back of the case there is the engraving of Acrux which represents the brightest star in the Southern Cross constellation.

The Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Nuit Australe is available in a 42 mm pink gold case with a pink gold bezel and pink gold crown decorated with a midnight blue enamel cabochon. The timepiece comes with an automatic mechanical movement that features a 72 hours power reserve. Furthermore, it has a matte dark brown alligator strap and a pink gold folding clasp.

A poetic interpretation of the mysterious midnight sky and its amazing constellations, the Midnight Nuit Asutrale is a fascinating timepiece that was designed to enrich the wrists of the wealthiest and most prestigious people on the planet. It is a truly extraordinary design dedicated to the most beautiful astronomical discoveries.

Louis Moinet Memoris – 200th Anniversary

Paris, 1816

Louis Moinet invents the chronograph – an artistic and technological masterpiece beating at a rhythm of 216,000 vibrations per hour, designed to observe the orbits of the planets in the heavens.

Geneva, 2016

Louis Moinet lights up the stars by presenting Memoris, the first chronograph-watch, clothed with light. The first limited edition marks the start of a series of commemorative pieces dedicated to the bicentenary of the invention of the chronograph.

The “Memoris 200^th Anniversary” uses a fixed graver engraving technique that is unprecedented in the history of watchmaking. Each star is worked on individually; never before has there been a starry sky with such a natural sparkle.

Watchmaking art that repurposes guillochage

The “Memoris 200^th Anniversary” can be summed up in three points:

A new hour dial – made in enamel for the first time in history of the piece
A new mainplate, painted and decorated with star constellations
A new translucent flange and counter bridge

The starry back consists of a brass plate coated in a translucent blue. The stars have been created using an entirely new fixed graver process. Devised by one of Louis Moinet’s craftsmen, this involves attaching a specially-made lathe to a traditional rose engine (also known as a guillocheuse).

The idea is to combine the power of the rose engine with the precision of a handheld graver. The result differs from that produced by milling or stamping: while it resembles the effect traditionally associated with a guillocheuse inasmuch as material is removed, here this is focused on a tiny area with varying levels of depth – two characteristics that traditional engine turning seeks to avoid at all costs.

What is more, individual stars are all fashioned to feature different angles and depths, so that each and every one captures as much light as possible. Several fixed graver sessions are required per star. The process used is unprecedented in watchmaking – and the outstanding result gives the novel impression that certain stars really are shining.

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon

What Baselworld would be complete without a new watch by Ulysse Nardin and when it comes to the 2015 edition of the Swiss exhibition nothing changed as the famous brand offered its fans the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillion.

The beautiful Ulysse Nardin maintains a good balance between technical innovation, beautiful design and a classic quality that only a brand like Ulysse Narding could pull off.

The Ulysse Narding Anchor Tourbillon has a 44mm case which, while on the larger side, will look good on just about any size wrist. The same case has been used in the brand’s Classico collection. The Anchor Tourbillion’s case will come in either white or rose gold. The dial is no simple glossy white model; it is made from Frand Feu enamel by Donze Cadrans a dialmaker which operates under the Ulysse Nardin company.

In order to best protect the watch from the normal wear and tear while also allowing its users to have the very best visibility this model boasts a sapphire crystal both for the front and back of the watch. The watch is also quite thick thanks to the tourbillon; however, the thickness doesn’t take away anything from the look of the watch, particularly when paired with a leather strap.

The watch is powered by the caliber UN-178 which is a manually wound 3.5 Hz movement with two barrels. The movement offers an impressive power reserve which spans over the course of a week. The watch also comes with a power reserve indicator, a 60 second tourbillon and a highly spectacular constant Ulysse Anchor escapement system.

The constant-force escapement was developed by Ulysse Narding and Sigatec, a company that manufactures and designs silicum micro components. The constant-force escapement in the Anchor Tourbillon is made entirely from silicium with research being carried out for well over 8 years in order to create this model.

The Ulysse Nardin Anchor differs from other Swiss anchors by using a circular frame which supports a centered fork that is made stable by two blade springs. The blade springs are remarkably thin, 1/10^th the thickness of a string of human hair.

The Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon will be available in a limited edition of just 36 pieces. Out of the 36 pieces, 18 will be available in rose gold while the other 18 in white gold. The watches are priced at $84,000 and are available for purchase since May of 2015.

Korona K0 Northern Lights

The Baselworld exhibition has shown numerous new watches and trends during the last couple of years yet few have been as original and innovative as the Sarpaneva Korona K0 Northern Lights.

This Finnish luxury product made by watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is a new addition to the already established Korona family. The watch is named after the Aurora Borealis, which are naturally occurring lights that can be seen at high altitudes in the northernmost regions of the Northern Hemisphere. This theme is represented in the luminous dial with its intricate pattern and diverse colors. The watch offers models for blue, green and violet luminosity. While most watches have certain elements on the dial coated in luminous dust, the Sarpaneva Korona K0 Northern Lights watch brings things to another level by lighting up the entire dial once all other light sources go out. The watch also includes a moonphase element to add to its beautifully intricate dial.

The Northern Lights collection offers three watches each with its own unique lume color coating. The lume aspect of this beautiful Finnish watch is no simple application, it is however, a complex process which involves several companies specialized in the field. The coating is in fact a composite that is located just beneath the top portion of the dial. It is produced by Black Badger Advanced Composites and Ambient Glow Technology. It offers extended durability and a far stronger lighting effect when compared to conventional lume coatings, even when it isn’t fully charged.

The open top part of the dial provides sufficient space for the lume to shine through while also giving the watch an interesting pattern. The hour markings are placed on the top layer of the dial and shine green against the other lume coatings.

We can also find the trademarked Sarpaneva moonphase complication at 6 o’clock, where Stepan’s face can be seen in a stylized design of course, in either red gold or white gold.

Like most Stepan Sarpaneva watches, the K0 Northern Lights is powered by a Soprod A10. The dials are beautifully crafted while the Korona case is an impressive 46mm, making this Finnish beauty quite a large accessory, one that will certainly attract a lot of attention, both to its size and the lume feature.

Each of the four colors offered for this model will come in a limited edition of eight models and will be priced starting with 14,500 Euros.